Foundation Ideas For Sheds

Shed Foundation with Concrete Pavers

An uncomplicated shed foundation that works well for prebuilt or custom sheds. On flat open ground or a sand foundation, a paver foundation is placed. They offer a stable, flat foundation on which to erect or build a shed, as well as even support for the floor.

The heavier the paver is, but the less you require, the bigger it is. For tiny sheds made of wood, metal, or plastic with or without a floor, pavers are excellent on flat ground. Using pavers brings the entrance near to or on the ground, making it ideal for quads or riding lawnmowers.

Metal Kit Foundation

Several particular shed manufacturers sell metal base kits. Metal foundation kits often only function with sheds made by the same company. These are often the “cheap” shed brands that can be obtained at well-known internet merchants and home improvement stores (sometimes marketed as kits themselves).

Because to their inexpensive cost and straightforward construction, metal foundation kits are widely used. However, the low cost degrades the quality of the materials. Some shed foundation kits, according to reviews, are fragile and readily broken. Additionally, before installation, the shed site must be fully level according to the majority of shed foundation kits.

Aside from any potential quality issues, there is still a limited range of sheds for which metal foundation kits are an option. If your site is uneven, you should definitely select a different shed pad so that you may level your building and provide it a sturdy foundation.

Shed Foundation With Concrete Anchors

Building a hardwood shed floor and securing it with concrete anchors is one of the most popular techniques. Although the concrete shed floor is most likely the greatest available alternative for a foundation, it is also the priciest.

The concrete floor anchors depicted above are the most generally used technique for establishing a wooden shed floor that has been allowed by regional building inspectors in the greater Dayton area, where I construct sheds. This technique not only aids in preventing shifting but also aids in securing your shed in strong winds. Although any shed can be destroyed by hurricane or tornado force winds, this choice is generally approved across the nation for everyday weather conditions. Although I occasionally choose to place two anchors in each corner, I virtually never did.

Solid Concrete Blocks

An excellent base for any size shed and a reasonably simple foundation for beginners. good for sheds that are built at home or by prefabrication. Concrete blocks come in rectangular or square shapes.

Use only blocks made of solid concrete. They must be level with one another and the ground since they are sitting on it. How many blocks you need depends on the shed’s size and the slope of the ground.

To create a tower level with other block towers on the sloped terrain, it could be necessary to stack blocks. Support the corners, the centre region, and every 6 to 8 feet along the perimeter (closer if for heavy machinery). 6 blocks would be needed for an 8′ by 12′ shed, and more if leveling towers were used.

Metal Jacks

Metal jack shed foundations are a relatively recent addition to the market for shed foundations. Their relatively simple installation requires only a drill, screwdriver, and adjustable wrench or pair of pliers, which is why they are so popular. On locations with a modest incline, metal shed foundation jacks’ built-in leveling of up to 6″ is helpful.

For large sheds or any shed that is supplied completely built, metal jacks should not be utilized as the foundation. They’ll probably function best for on-site-built sheds that are 6′ x 8′ or less. They are not a frost-proof foundation solution either.

Wooden Shed Floor On Blocks

Another choice is a wooden shed floor supported by concrete blocks.

Deck Blocks

a great base for sheds of any size. For a DIY newbie, it is also comparatively simple. good for sheds that are built at home or by prefabrication. Deck blocks are shaped like square-based pyramids.

The top of them has channels for wooden framing. They must be level with one another and the ground since they are sitting on it. The amount of blocks required depends on the shed’s dimensions.

Support every corner, every 6 to 8 feet along the perimeter (closer if for heavy equipment), and all the way through the center. For an 8′ x 12′ shed, 3 deck blocks would be needed on each long side. Perfect for flat lots; not for hills.

Excellent with any type of shed material. Use for cottages, huts, and outbuildings. erects the shed such that lawn mowers and quads can easily access it.

Due to structural weight bearing and partial floor support, heavy machinery is not recommended.


Paver shed foundations are one of the most affordable shed foundations on this list and are popular due to its relative simplicity and price.

Installing paver foundations is a simple process, especially for do-it-yourselfers. Paver foundations work well for tiny sheds with some sort of built-in floor that are less than 8′ in any direction.

On-Grade Foundations

A foundation that is on grade rests on the surface of the earth. It is not the basis for a permanent shed. It can therefore be moved if necessary. The base may be made of solid concrete blocks, skids, or timber frames. If you have a small to medium-sized shed, if you might wish to move your shed in the future, or if you can’t dig into the ground, you should pick one of these.

Gravel Pad and Timber Frame

A superb foundation for pre-made or custom-built sheds of any size that is reasonably simple to build. This is more challenging for a beginner DIYer because of its size.

For the flat land, the timber frame foundation and gravel pad work well. Use gravel from a pit or 1″ crusher run. It packs into a more stable basis and contains smaller particles.

Utilizing a gas-powered compactor, compact the gravel while maintaining levelness. The pad, which should be 2′ broader and longer than your shed, should be on the ground.

Spread out the gravel, pound it down, and then remove the sod or cover it with garden cloth. It ought to be level and 4″ to 6″ thick. The size of the area you need depends on the shed’s dimensions.

On the gravel, arrange pressure-treated 4″x4″ (or 4″x6″ or 6″x6″) timbers in the shed’s proportions.

Where the timbers come together, use a half-lap joint. Lumber should be level and its corners squared. Make holes in the joints and drive a length of rebar into the earth.

Plastic Grid (Permeable Pavers)

Plastic shed foundations are a very recent choice for shed bases. Brands like TRUEGRID®, Standartpark®, and Gravalock® have created a number of “permeable paver” products in recent years. While the majority of these materials were initially intended for parking lot purposes, do-it-yourselfers quickly discovered that they also made excellent, reasonably priced shed bases.

synthetic grid The way that shed foundations work is a bit like a cross between a paver foundation and a gravel foundation. Although the plastic grid can be swiftly installed like a paver system, gravel is needed to finish the base. Essentially, the plastic grid acts as the foundation’s structural support, while the gravel addition offers uniform support throughout the entire pad and facilitates water drainage.

Some people might not like how much plastic is utilized in the foundation of this type of shed. Thankfully, the majority of plastic shed foundation producers employ recycled materials, but it does imply that your garden will now contain more plastic.

Frost-Proof Foundations

Frost-proof foundations are frequently chosen because they can hold more weight than on-grade foundations. They need more processes to construct, and they are permanent. In order to preserve the structural integrity of the foundation, you must dig below the frost line and utilize concrete and piers. This kind of foundation won’t budge. Examples of this kind of foundation include poured concrete slabs, concrete piers, and pole-barn foundations. This choice is quite advantageous for colder regions where the foundation of a shed could be harmed by freezing temperatures.

Skid Foundations

A shed can be supported quickly and easily with a skid foundation, which is simple enough for a beginner to construct. We’re not referring to delivery skids for goods. The building’s length is supported by two or more pressure-treated 4″x4″, 6″x6,” 8″x8,” or even logs put parallel to one another.

The skids provide stable foundation for the shed. Runners and skids both typically rest firmly on the ground. This means that you need a mostly level landscape.

The skids originally indicated that the shed might be moved by skidding. To ensure that the area is level and well-drained, it is a good idea to dig a trench where the skids will be placed.

This will make leveling simpler and protect the wood. The trench ought to extend farther than your skid and be wider. A 10′ x 30′ hut built on log skids over 90 years ago was moved with my assistance. The 100 yard relocation was simpler than anticipated; we utilized ropes and a half to haul.

Concrete Piers

Because they are substantially less expensive while still offering the same frost-proofing advantages as a concrete pad, concrete pier shed foundations are a popular choice. Concrete piers can be used as an independent shed foundation, in conjunction with a gravel shed foundation, or as a component of a post-and-beam shed foundation.

One option to satisfy the footing restrictions required by some municipalities is to use concrete piers. Frost-proof footings are frequently required by local laws for structures larger than a particular square footage; for instance, the town of Huntingdon, New York, mandates footings on all sheds larger than 120 square feet.

Using a technique like Sonotube®, concrete piers also make it possible to level a shed on an incline. It is also possible to incorporate anchoring hardware when pouring the piers, which will address another typical issue with shed foundations.


All of the aforementioned foundations are made to support the floor frame of the shed. The walls are then supported by the floor frame. The foundation of a pole-barn is entirely different because it doesn’t actually have a floor.

In order to build a pole barn, multiple holes must be excavated below the frost line all the way around the base. Tall round poles or square timbers are inserted into the holes after concrete footings have been poured into each hole. The poles are covered with horizontal beams, which are subsequently affixed to the walls. You can use processed stone, pea gravel, or wood chips to cover the exposed ground inside the pole-barn foundation. Another option is to pour a concrete floor.

Post and Beams

This is a solid foundation for any size shed, whether it is prefabricated or home-built. Although more forgiving, it is comparable to the concrete pier structure.

It makes use of pressure-treated 6″x6″ or 8″x8″ posts that are inserted into holes dug or drilled into the ground up to the frost line (or bedrock). The posts should rest on undisturbed ground; only dig down as far as is necessary. For drainage, there needs to be gravel in the bottom of the holes.

A bag of concrete can also be mixed and poured into each hole. Posts are inserted into the holes, leveled, and fastened before being backfilled and tamped. Keep the mounded, tightly packed earth around the post.

To line up with the framing they will attach to and support, all the posts must be precisely in the right place. Each post may rise many feet above the surrounding terrain. Once they are all in place, the tops of the posts can be leveled with one another. They give the pressure-treated beams a level surface to rest on.

Prior to notching for the beams, cut the posts level with one another (make sure to notch the correct side of each post).

The number of posts required depends on the shed’s dimensions. Three posts per long side would be needed for an 8′ x 12′ shed. Place the beam in position once the posts have been notched, then drill pilot holes for carriage bolts and fasten the beam.

For lateral support, diagonal braces ought to be fastened to the beam between the posts. suitable for slopes or flat terrain. Excellent with any type of shed material. Use for cottages, huts, and outbuildings.

Concrete Slab (floating)

Another extremely popular alternative for shed foundations is concrete slabs. They are a choice among contractors that place a high value on the sturdiness and endurance of their buildings. In locations without frost or where the building code does not require a “frost-proof” foundation, a “floating” concrete slab (without footers) is an option.

There are only really two main arguments against putting in a concrete shed foundation.

Concrete is the priciest shed foundation option, to start with. A gravel shed foundation costs around three times as much as a floating concrete base.

Second, unlike some other shed foundations, particularly gravel shed foundations, concrete foundations do not drain as well. Rainwater may pool around the base of your shed if it has timber joists, floors, and skids, as do the majority of prefabricated sheds. The likelihood of rot or other damage rises as a result. If your shed is the same size as the concrete pad and is constructed with the concrete pad serving as the floor, drainage won’t be an issue.

Adjustable Plastic Base

Smaller sheds might not require much of a foundation, particularly if the surrounding landscaping is strong enough to support it. To make sure the foundation is stable and level, plastic shed jacks can be utilized.

Screw Piles

Any size shed or house, whether it is constructed at home or is prefabricated, can have a suitable foundation like this. Ideal for all soil types as well.

It is comparable to pier, post, and beam structure made of concrete. Galvanized steel posts with a screw end make up the screw piles. They are available in various lengths and diameters. Some must be driven into the ground to the frost line using a small excavator with a specialized attachment.

Other kinds require a specialized portable powered screwdriver, so I hope your wrists are strong. Vertical frost lift is reduced because to the screw. Since there is no excavating, there is also very little settling.

After the beams and joists are put in place, continue building. Suitable for slopes or flat terrain. Outstanding for use with any kind of material.

Concrete Foundation w/ Footers (monolithic or block)

The most frost-resistant and long-lasting shed foundation currently available is a concrete foundation with footers. Monolithic concrete foundations and concrete block foundations are the two main types of concrete footers.

The footers and the pad (also known as the “flatwork”) for a monolithic foundation are both poured simultaneously as one continuous concrete mass. For situations when the site is within 16 inches of level, monolithic foundations work well.

A concrete block foundation is built in three stages: footers, block walls, and pad (sometimes known as “flatwork”). The footer is typically 16″ to 24″ wide and poured at a frost-proof depth (which varies depending on region). Block walls are placed on top of the footer once it has had time to cure up to the foundation’s ultimate grade. A flat concrete pad that is typically at least 4″ thick is then poured. The floor of the garage or shed will be this pad.

In most places, a gravel pad and concrete shed foundation piers will enough to meet the criteria for frost proofing and footers for shed foundations. For the biggest sheds and outbuildings, like garages or two-story sheds, a concrete foundation with footers can be necessary.